A tour of the popular monastery in Ladakh during the annual festival.

Set against the dramatic landscape of Ladakh  on the banks of River Indus, stands the Hemis Monastery  (or Hemisgompa), one of the largest of its kind in the newly formed Union Territory. An extremely popular tourist attraction, the imposing white monastery complex sits perched atop a hill, its buildings covering almost every inch of the hilltop, each structure seemingly balanced above the other. Located just behind the quaint village of Hemis, and just off the Leh-Manali highway, the monastery is one of the most popular day trips from Leh. Silhouetted against gigantic bare mountains and the unbelievably clear blue sky, the monastery stands in silence, almost like the meditating monks inside it dark chambers;

it is almost hidden in a gorge and isn't visible till you are almost there. Once you reach the base of the monastery, you have to start walking. As you climb the steep flight of stairs to the monastery gate that the vibrant colours of its interiors reveal themselves like magic. Red, yellow, green and blue painted murals pop against the white-washed white bare exteriors. Its main entrance is flanked by fluttering prayer flags and mani (stones with prayers inscribed) stone walls. From here, the path leads you to a spacious courtyard, which offers magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. 

The monastery, said to be one of the most important among the many strewn across Ladakh, has several religious valuables, mostly housed in the museum, including a statue of Lord Buddha, gold and silver stupas, thangka (religious) paintings and an impressive range of artifacts. For a more immersive experience, you can stay in the monastery guest house. There are seven temples inside Hemis, with several awe-inspiring features – an image of a blue-haired Sakyamuni Buddha, a life-sizeimage of Goddess Tara and a lacquered throne, which is said to have been a gift from an erstwhile king of Kashmir. In summer, Hemis is filled with tourists, especially during the two-day annual Hemis festival .  Held from the 10th day of the 5th lunar month of the Tibetan calendar (between late June and first half of July), the Hemis (also referred to as Tsechu) festival commemorates the birth of Guru Padmasambhava or Padma Sambhava (also known as Guru Rinpoche). Padmasambhava is held in great reverence by the followers of Tibetan Buddhism as an incarnation (or manifestation) of Lord Buddha.

The highlights of this colourful festival, organised in the expansive courtyard of the monastery, include masked dances (known as chams) performed by monks in traditional robes and costumes and the playing of monastic ritualistic instruments. Every 12 years, the significance of the festival manifolds as one of the monastery’s most sacred and prized possessions, a resplendent pearl-encrusted, three-storey-high thangka depicting a silken image of Guru Rinpoche, is unfurled.

The two-day celebration begins with the beating of drums and clashing of cymbals as monks wearing red hats (or drukpahats) appear on the roof of the monastery. Two traditional elongated trumpets called dugchen(or dungchen) that are placed in the courtyard near the central flagpole are blown by the monks, marking the start of the celebrations. The history of the monastery and the significance of the festival is recited over a loudspeaker in the background for guests. 

On day one, the first cham is performed by dancers in traditional costumes with an impression of a skull on their chest. This dance is said to ward off evil. 
This is followed by another performance by a group of 16 monks. Each donning a metal mask, they are known as the divine fairies (or dakinis). With a damru (hand-held two sided drum) and bell in either hand, they move in slow steps to the beat of drums and cymbals, and chant “Om Vajra Guru Padma Siddhi Hum”, the mantra of Guru Padmasambhava. As the dance progresses, the air becomes heavy with drum beats, the collective thud of the dancers' feet and their slow but deep chanting. As the chants peak to a crescendo of sorts, the sound reverberates between the peaks, seeming to rise towards the sky.   

Next comes the most-awaited part of the celebrations - the grand entry of a monk dressed as Guru Padmasambhava and his procession, amidst much cheer and applause. As the day progresses, there are more dances that are performed concluding with one that represents the vanquishing of the evil spirit.

Day two is devoted to worship and silent prayers that are held in the monastery’s prayer hall. Celebrations post the prayers continue in the courtyard with the MahaDongchen, also known as the bison or buffalo-faced deity, who emerges with his train of eight dancers. They dance around a mandala on which an effigy made of dough (symbolic of ego) is placed. As a conclusion to the dance, and the festival, the effigy is cut (or slain).